It all started in late 2013 in HCMC Vietnam. We’d decided to stage the first ever cross country car rally through Indochina, to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the historic battle of Dien Bien Phu in North West Vietnam.
Little did we know the monumental challenges with getting cars, rally teams, sponsors and media safely across borders and the labyrinth of permits, paperwork and permission to make it happen!
“The trip, the journey, the fulfillment will be yours” was our catch phrase. In hindsight, we can add the cliché - “if it was easy, everyone would be doing it…”
We departed from the iconic Unification Palace HCMC on the morning of April 27, 2014. Ten cars and 32 intrepid travellers drove through the gates, each on their personal quest for adventure. Some didn’t make it, as the 2400km in 12 days took its toll.
Each day was a 6.00am start and we were on our way by 7.00am daily. Road conditions were good, bad and in some cases very ugly. For drivers and navigators alike, their concentration throughout was intense. Crossing borders, bridges, rivers and mountain passes, we certainly had our share of ‘near misses’. One wrong turn could have been disastrous.
EM Forster’s classic novel ‘Passage To India’ describes “the heat” as a recurring theme; exhausting, oppressive - energy sapping. Likewise our ‘Passage To Indochina’ was hot and humid as we journeyed through the end of the dry season with monsoonal rains beckoning and humidity over 90% daily.
Drivers ranged from experienced to novices, young and old in an eclectic multi-cultural ensemble. The Mekong Rally 2014 comprised Vietnamese teams, a Russian entrant, English and Australians. We had Doctor Seng from Laos accompany us for medical support and a mandatory police escort with a 13 years veteran, Officer Beau. Both were delightful companions and served us well with health and safety and clearing the way ahead when tunnel-visioned crazed mini-cab drivers would speed past us from all directions.
Each border crossing was nail-biting. We’d completed formalities back in our headquarters, however, border guards are an unpredictable breed and typically officious. Ask any travel agent and they’ll tell you taking private cars and foreign number plates across borders in SE Asia is a no.
“Mr Barry, it cannot be done. You will have to fly” they said. Following months of persistence and patience, we finally got the green light from Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos authorities.
Our press conference in April generated national and international media with five TV news crews and 23 print media outlets.
This inaugural special event was funded and sponsored by Focus Investment Group under the auspices of leading agency Focus Travel Vietnam. This syndicate is headed by entrepreneur and successful rally team member, Dang Bao Hieu.
On April 30 we celebrated the Unification Day, Vietnam’s national holiday to mark the end of the Vietnam War. A time where 90 million Vietnamese pay their respects and contemplate their war time history.
We overnighted at the Cambodian riverside town of Kratie. It’s here where the gravely endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins can be seen. We took a river boat mid-stream on the Mekong River and met with local officials to discuss how we can offer environmental support. Quite often local fisherman catch these dolphins in their nets.
Government rangers patrol the river-banks so policing this is already in hand. However, the river boats also kill or injure these rare mammals with their exposed propellers. We are now looking to provide propeller guards for these boats in the future, to reduce further carnage. ( visit www.wwf.com )
Continuing on our way, we arrived into Laos and journeyed to Vientiane and on to Vang Vieng. One of the world’s least known and most spectacular drives is the seven hour trek from Vang Vieng to the Unesco World Heritage site of Luang Prabang. Ethnic minorities and mountain tribes live on the roadside; it’s like stepping back in time.
Our most confronting experience was spent with ‘Free The Bears’ and project manager Mike Brocklehurst. The bear sanctuary is located 30km out of town in a lush tropical rain forest. Rescued bears are cared for here by Mike and his dedicated team; a thankless and never-ending task to protect these magnificent animals from a variety of threats, including snares and other forms of hunting.
Mekong Expeditions is proud to donate funds to feed a bear for a year and we have pledged to do so on all future expeditions. For more information visit www.freethebears.com.au
After an arduous and exhausting journey of 2400km we finally arrived back into Vietnam and the historic town of Dien Bien Phu. May 7 was the 60th anniversary, when the French colonialists were finally ousted from Indochina.
The President, Prime Minister, government authorities, Ambassadors and thousands of troops where on parade. For me, personally, this was the highlight of three years living and traveling in Vietnam. What a spectacle!
Remembering the fallen and witnessing the pride on the faces of the next generation of Vietnamese, was a sight to behold. Young men and women in uniform as they goose-stepped, marching their way through the streets – an emotional sight for the thousands of spectators along the way.
During the two-hour parade their expressions were staunch and stoic. As they turned the final corner and then disbanded, they broke out into song, tossing their hats and bunches of flowers into the air. Like a coming of age party, the young and old celebrating together as one.
On this day Ho Chi Minh himself would have stood tall in honor of his proud, tenacious and nationalistic people.
Next year Mekong Expeditions will stage the second Mekong Rally 2015 ‘Passage To Indochina’. A second rally will also be staged; Tracing the Ho Chi Minh Trail, discover the Golden Triangle and the first-ever cross country rally through Myanmar. Coming soon – www.mekong-rally.com / www.mekong-expeditions.com
“Life is not a destination, it’s the journey” – live The Mekong Rally 2015!
Words & Photography by Barry J Atkinson
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